OFFGRID TIPS 

Step by step troubleshooting if suspected brakes not working(no 12vdc) going to brake solenoid.

 

Before performing below steps, make sure the brake controller is installed. If using Redarc Tow pro elite, place the controller into manual mode, the green light should be on. Then have someone place themselves next to the trailer wheel and listen for humming or buzzing sound when the tow vehicle brakes are engaged(brake pedal depressed). If you hear a sound, then power is going to that brake solenoid. Check the other trailer wheel and do the same. If you hear a sound from the solenoid then power is going to that side of the brakes. If brakes are still not working or engaging, it is a mechanical situation with the drum brakes. If no power, check the weather pack connection under the trailer for each wheel. These have a tendency to come apart. In my situation the connector was intact but one of the wires had come apart inside the connector and was not visible to the eye until I unwrapped the electrical tape. This is where I found the weather pack terminal had come apart from a previous trip and it was yanked out by the suspension angle of the road. I ordered a new terminal on Amazon and was able to redo the connection and all works now. So before every trip part of my pre-trip inspection is to have my wife depress the tow vehicle brakes and listen for the buzzing sound from each brake assembly. 

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Amazon link for terminal connectors: https://amzn.to/3KYVaxr

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If no power going to brake assembly perform the steps below:

 

Inside the 7 pin box:
  1. with the trailer unplugged from the vehicle, pull the breakaway switch.  See if there is 12vdc using a voltage meter between the white ground pin and the blue brake pin.

  2. with the trailer plugged into the vehicle, see if there is 12v between the black aux pin and the white ground pin.    If this is the case, you can jumper current from the black pin to the blue pin and see if the brakes activate (click or stop the wheel(s)

  3. You can make a new lead from the blue pin and bring it down and near the brake system.    You should, with a test meter on the ohms setting, be seeing low to no resistance between your new lead and either of the pins on the chassis side brake connector by the hub.  If you always see infinite resistance, the factory wiring is broken between the 7-pin box and the brake hub. You can use this same method to test the ground side, put your test lead on the white pin inside of the 7 pin box, and check either chassis connector.

4. You can use this same method to test for miswiring. With a test lead connected at the chassis side of the brake connector near the hub, are any of the pins continuous inside of the 7 pin box? 

Again, should be blue or white.  If you do find a mis-wire, must remove terminals individually off of the offending pin until you know which one is the culprit, move it to the appropriate pin, and the problem will be resolved.

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